Can We Drop the Otōshi?

     And when you go to a restaurant or izakaya (a bar or pub-like establishment) that is not part of a chain, you feel like you are supporting the community.  But I have to point out that in these times of economic strife, many places engage in a tradition that I think potentially drives away customers.  That tradition being the お通し (otōshi). The otōshi-- alternatively referred to as 突き出し (tsukidashi)-- is an appetizer, but it is also obligatory. Obligatory in the sense that you can expect it, and in the sense that you will be expected to pay for it. Usually, it takes the form of a small dish.  Some pickled vegetables might be thrown in.  It could also be made from the previous day's leftovers. It could even be something as mundane as peanuts or something as exotic (and probably unwanted) as whale meat.

     It can be thought of as a kind of cover charge. You took up a seat, so you have to compensate the owner. In that respect, it is kind of nice to actually get something back for the cover charge in the form of a little snack. But it seems kind of strange to be paying that cover in the first place, especially in an era where people in Japan are starting to get scarce. In other words, the bar isn't doing us a favor by letting us in, we are doing it a favor by coming in.

     For instance, the other day I was out on my bike when I spotted an amusing squid drawn on a chalkboard.  I took a glance inside and noted that the atmosphere inside was comfortable looking and the prices seemed reasonable. I also felt bad for the place because it was empty, so I stepped in. I ordered a plate of sashimi and a  Calpis. Then the waitress asked me what I would like for my otōshi. I felt kinda of tricked and trapped, but with a shrug I ordered some kimchee-octopus for the list she was showing me. In the end, thanks to the otōshi's price being added in,  I ended up paying about substantial sum for two little dishes and a drink. I didn't feel much like going to the place again after that. Considering how much food I could have gotten at a combini for the same price, it's no wonder convenience stores are everywhere.  Japanese restaurants may be driving off potential business with their otōshi.

     Foreigners, often ignorant of the practice, are surprised by the otōshi tradition being dropped on them when the bill comes around.  But sometimes they don't get charged either.  In my case, none of the places I frequented during my first three years in  Southern Japan ever charged me for the otōshi when I dined alone, though they provided them often. So I was ignorant of what was going on when I moved closer to Tokyo and suddenly bills started to be higher than I was expecting.

     Shortly after learning about otōshi I tried to start a conversation one night with my fellow foreign diner and the master of the izakaya we were at.  The master had just handed us a small dish.  "Oh, is this an otōshi?" I inquired, more out of curiosity than concern about price (I had at that point accepted the inevitability that some places serve them). The master confirmed that it was.  I started to speculate in English about if the otōshi at some places are free, and whether the one we were currently eating was free.

"Don't ask them that." My companion gravely warned.

"Well I just want to make conversation..." I said.

"No. Leave it."

     After we left the Izakaya my friend explained that he didn't know if we were charged for otōshi at that place or not, but it would be a bad idea to ask.  After all, if we weren't getting charged for it, that would mean we were being privileged for being foreign, and it would make the other customers feel bad.

     I think it would be ideal if we could have complementary otōshi for everyone that comes (especially if it's just leftovers), or, barring that, some choice in the matter. There are a few people that want the system to change, and there have even been lawsuits over the practice, so some establishments have switched to optional otōshi.